Carolyn Zellander

Women of Color . . . Finding the Right Foundation for Your Complexion



Posted: Friday, December 21, 2007

by Carolyn Zellander
SKINbyCarolz

The purpose or goal of Foundation is to even out the skin tone by disguising blemishes and other imperfections.  The idea is to make your skin appear flawless and as if you are not wearing any make up at all.  The perfect shade should blend invisibly with your skin.  If you can "see" your foundation, then it is not right for your complexion.  When your significant other says "Honey, I prefer you without that make-up," then you know it is wrong.  Why?  If it were right for you, he wouldn't be able to see it.

Most Women of Color (approximately two-thirds of the world) including Indian, Native American, Hispanics, Blacks or African Americans (do I dare use that term) have a yellow based under-tone to their skin.  However, not every Woman of Color will fit into that category.  Some have undertones of red or blue.  Generally, the deeper or darker skin has blue undertones.  The first key for selecting the right foundation is to determine the correct undertone of your skin; then select foundations that have that same hue.  How do determine your undertone?  After washing your face, wait 10-15 minutes before applying anything (toners and moisturizers included).   Then look in the mirror (with bright, natural light) and you should be able to see red, yellow or blue undertones.

The next step in trying to find the right foundation is to match your skin color (tone).  Is it light, dark, coffee, tan, mocha or something in between?  It is almost, if not absolutely impossible to find a natural tone match for the majority of Women of Color because of so many variations in skin colorings.

Another problem with finding the right match of foundation is because of the ingredient Titanium Dioxide.  Titanium Dioxide is a great source for getting sun protection in your make-up or face creams; however, it can make some Women of Color appear to have an ashy tone.  Many make-up companies add Titanium Dioxide in their make up lines.  If the product reads, "Contain SPF __", then check the ingredients list for Titanium Dioxide.  This is especially a problem if your skin has a deep dark hue.  Mineral make-ups are an excellent alternative to foundations, but since they contain Titanium Dioxide they will not work for most Women of deep Color.

So what is the solution?  As an Esthetician, I promote keeping the skin healthy and even toned.  Monthly professional exfoliations help to keep the skin naturally radiant and even-toned.  If the skin is oily, there are products which can be used to control the oil. Healthy skin is moist and dewy looking!  Not to mention sexy!  At any rate, once we have achieved our objective of healthy skin, then a bronzing powder can be applied with a big fluffy brush on all the spots where the sun naturally hits: Forehead, cheeks, nose.  I usually apply on the neck as well to avoid an obvious line of demarcation.  Bronzers come in shades of light, dark and deep.  Bronze is beautiful on dark skin and adds just the right amount of interest!

If the skin is not yet at its ideal, it is appropriate to use some foundation as a cover-up.  Select a foundation using the guidelines outlined above and get as close a match as possible.  Use only on the areas needed, do not cover your entire face, blend well, then apply your bronzing powder as directed above.  Try this and just wait for all the wonderful compliments you will receive!


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Top-level comments on this article: (2 total)
» left by Karen
from Chula Vista, CA 4 years 147 days ago.
Carol, I'm glad that you followed through with this article, as I'm sure that it will be most helpful to other women of color. I definitely appreciated the information
» left by MOSSENATON
from Clearwater, Fl 4 years 146 days ago.
Carol, Again, you have given us information to help us stay beautiful! Thanks.
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